Browsing Category: free stuff

A Birthday Interview Printable

The last week or so, I’ve been completely consumed with working on the new website. Lots of checking and updating links, making sure photographs are showing and linking properly to various posts, updating tags and categories so old posts are easier to find… It’s tedious, and I’m not sure that I’m anywhere close to being done (haha!), but I’ve made a lot of progress.

Last night, I needed a bit of a break from the tedium of clicking, copying and pasting links, so I worked on getting at least one of the Birthday Interview printable ready for download. And I’m happy to say that it’s ready!

Obviously, I had to make some changes from the ones I made for my sons’, but I think I actually prefer the large number in the center…

IMG_6321

Anyway, the printable version includes pages for ages 4-18, only because I figure that when turning 3, kids aren’t really able to articulate their responses to most of the questions, but that could just be my boys! At the rate my daughter is learning to speak, I’ll probably be having full conversations with her by the time she’s 3 whereas my boys were a bit behind in that department (though now, I can’t get them to stop talking!)…

All you have to do is download the pdf, print out the pages and fill in the blanks! (For some reason, the page with the number 4 is the very last page of the pdf instead of the first. I couldn’t figure out how to fix it.)

20 questions blue

The printable is currently only available in blue, but what other colors would you like to see?

20 Questions – A Birthday Interview

All 3 of my kids were born in the month of February. Within a day of each other. 12 hours if I want to be silly about it. The twins were born on February 17, and my daughter was born February 18, 3 years later. This means that right after the holidays, birthday party planning must begin. Last year, we had recently moved to Korea and the boys hadn’t made any friends yet, and because it was Penelope’s first birthday (dol), we didn’t have a party for the boys. If you’ve read my post about Miss Penny Penny’s first birthday party, you’d know why I didn’t have the time or energy to do anything for my big boys!

One thing that I did make time for was writing down the boys’ responses to 20 questions I put together for their birthday interview. I typed it up quickly in a Word document and honestly, forgot about it. With their 5th birthday approaching, I finally got around to designing what will eventually be pages in a book. And since I have the template prepared, I can just change the age and type in the answers every year.

I wanted the design of the page to be something timeless so that when I ask the children the same questions when they’re 18 years old, the page won’t look childish. Plus, my design aesthetic is very simple, clean and modern, so really…I guess it’s all about me! Haha!

Here’s the final product! I’ll be making up a printable version as well in various colors that will be available for download (when I can figure out how to do that!).

lincoln 20 questions charlie 20 questions

Iron Man Faceplate Pattern

As promised… Here’s the FREE pattern for the Iron Man hat faceplate. Please keep in mind that this pattern in ONLY for the faceplate. There are many free patterns available online for simple crochet hats. For best results, use a pattern that uses bulky yarn or two strands of worsted weight yarn held together.

Please feel free to make as many Iron Man hats as you’d like with this pattern, but kindly link back to this post/my blog if you post photographs of your Iron Man hats online. Also, please keep in mind that Iron Man is a copyrighted character. This pattern should not be used to create items for sale. The pattern is available for FREE and hats made from this pattern should not be sold for profit.

Hope you enjoy!

The PDF can be downloaded here:

Ratchet and Clank Hat Patterns are here!

For the first time in YEARS, we decided not to travel or have guests for Thanksgiving, so my DH and my two precious boys got to spend the entire day together, stuffing ourselves silly. And because I didn’t have to worry about entertaining or even setting the table, the men in my life and I even got to run around outside in the beautiful autumn sunlight. And this is what we did:

As a celebratory gift, I have finally completed the pattern for the Ratchet and Clank Hats, and I offer it to you here for FREE! The hat is designed to fit kids between the ages of 2-4. My boys are a few months shy of 3, and I’m fairly certain that they’ll be able to wear the hats next winter as well. They’re a little big, but absolutely wearable.

Ratchet and Clank Hats

© Julia Kim Werts 2011
These patterns are for non-commercial, personal use only. Ratchet and Clank are copyrighted characters. This pattern should NOT be used to create hats for sale. The pattern is available for FREE, and hats made from this pattern should not be sold for profit.

A PDF file can be downloaded here for free!
Ratchet and Clank Hat Pattern

Size: Ages 2-4 (Updated to add: My sons are now 5 years old. The Ratchet hat still fits (yay!), but the Clank hat is too short and doesn’t cover his ears. I would recommend making the Clank hat longer–5.5 inches–before beginning the decreases) if you would like the hat to be worn longer! 

These hats were made for my soon-to-be three year old twin boys at their Daddy’s request. They are definitely fun hats for little ones to wear, although I’m pretty sure that they’re more fun for my husband, who absolutely loves to take the boys out wearing them.

Materials
Worsted weight yarn in various colors
For Ratchet: brown, yellow, and tan
For Clank: light gray, dark gray, emerald green, red
No. 8, 16” circular needle
No. 8 dpn
No. 4 dpn
Tapestry needle
Poly-fil for Rachet’s ears

Ratchet’s Aviator Hat
With brown yarn, CO 97 st on No. 8 circular needle.
Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Round 1-5: Garter stitch around
All even rounds (WS): Knit around
Round 7-15 (odd rows only/RS): k1, m1, k14, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k14, m1, k1, m1, k14, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k14, m1, k1, m1, k14, slip1, k2togtbl, psso, k14, m1, k1
Round 17-until 16 st remain (odd rows only/RS): continue with pattern established above, but without the increases. So for Round 17: k15, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k29, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k29, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k15 [6 st decreased]; Round 19: k14, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k27, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k27, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k14 [6 st decreased], etc.
When 16 stitches remain, k2tog around [8 st]. Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull tightly to close hole at top of hat.

Ratchet Ears
With yellow yarn, CO 36 st on No. 8 dpn. Divide stitches evenly on 4 needles, and being careful not to twist stitches, join in the round.
Round 1-3: Knit around.
Round 4: k2tog, k32, ssk (34 st)
Round 5-7: Knit around.
Round 8: k2tog, k30, ssk (32 st)
Round 9-11: Knit around.
Round 12: k2tog, k28, ssk (30 st)
Round 13-15: Knit around.
Round 16: k2tog, k26, ssk (28 st)
Round 17 and 18: Knit around.
Round 19: k2tog, k24, ssk (26 st)
Round 20 and 21: Knit around.
Round 22: k2tog, k22, ssk (24 st)
Round 23 and 24: Knit around
Round 25: k2tog, k20, ssk (22 st)
Round 26 and 27: Knit around.
Round 28: k2tog, k18, ssk (20 st)
Round 29: Knit around.
Round 30: k2tog, k16, ssk (18 st)
Round 31: Knit around.
Round 32: k2tog, k14, ssk (16 st)
Round 33: Knit around.
Round 34: k2tog, k12, ssk (14 st)
Round 35: Knit around.
Round 36: k2tog, k10, ssk (12 st)
Round 37: k2tog, k8, ssk (10 st)
Round 38: k2tog, k6, ssk (8 st)
Round 39: k2tog, k4, ssk (6 st)
Round 40: k2tog, k2, ssk (4 st)
Round 41: k2tog, ssk (2 st)
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, thread yarn through the remaining 2 stitches. Pull tightly and weave in ends.

Make 2.

The chart on the right shows one half of the Ratchet ears. The stripes on Rachet’s
ears can be added using duplicate stitch according to the pattern.

Put just enough poly-fil in Rachet’s ears to hold their shape. Sewing the ears onto the aviator hat is quite challenging. The easiest way to figure out where to place the ears is to find a well-behaved child to wear the hat while you carefully pin the ears onto the hat. And if finding a 2-4 year old child who will stand still for long enough to accomplish this is an impossibility, a mannequin head will work.

Clank’s Hat
With lighter gray yarn, CO 72 st on No. 8 circular needle. Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Knit in 2×2 ribbing for about 1 inch
Continue in stockinette stitch until hat measures 4.5 inches
Begin decreases –
Round 1 – *k7, k2tog* around (64 st)
Round 2 – knit around
Round 3 – *k6, k2tog* around (56 st)
Round 4 – knit around
Round 5 – *k5, k2tog* around (48 st)
Round 6 – knit around
Round 7 – *k4, k2tog* around (40 st)
Round 8 – knit around
Round 9 – *k3, k2tog* around (32 st)
Round 10 – knit around
Round 11 – *k2, k2tog* around (24 st)
Round 12 – knit around
Round 13 – *k1, k2tog* around (16 st)
Round 14 – knit around
Round 15 – k2tog around (8 st)
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull tightly to close hole at top of hat.

Clank’s Top Piece and Antennae
With darker gray yarn, CO 4 st on No. 8 dpn.
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2 and all even rows: Purl across
Row 3: k1, m1, k2, m1, k1 (6 st)
Row 5: k1, m1, k4, m1, k1 (8 st)
Row 7: k1, m1, k6, m1, k1 (10 st)
Row 9: k1, m1, k8, m1, k1 (12 st)
Row 10: Purl across. Leave stitches on needle, but leaving a 6 inch break yarn.

Make 2 of these, but on the second one, do not break yarn.

(Note: You can actually bind off stitches to the 2 top pieces if you would prefer, then sew the two pieces together and pick up 4 stitches in the center for the antennae.)

Holding the two pieces together, use the tail you left on the first piece you made to bind off 4 stitches (Figure 1, 2, and 3).

Turn the piece so that the bound off stitches are now on the left side (Figure 4).

Doing the same thing you did on the other side, bind off 4 stitches from each needle. You will now have 8 stitches remaining, 4 on each needle (Figure 5).

Figure 1: Hold two pieces together with the WS/purl sides against each other on the inside.
Figure 2: Bind off 4 stitches by knitting 2 stitches together (one from each needle) 2 times, then passing the first stitch over the second stitch.
Figure 3: You will have 4 stitches from each needle bound off on one end.
Figure 4: Turn the piece so that the bound off stitches are on the left.
Figure 5: Bind off 4 stitches from each needle. You will have 8 stitches remaining, 4 on each needle.
Figure 6: Holding 2 needles together, knit stitches together. You will have 4 stitches remaining.

Again, holding the two needles together, knit the stitches together (do NOT bind off). You will have 4 stitches on your needle (Figure 6).

With the 4 stitches remaining, knit as if you’re making an i-cord until the piece is approximately 1.5 inches. Cut yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave tail through the 4 stitches. Pull tightly, then thread the yarn down the center of the i-cord and use the yarn to close any gaps that you may have along the base of the i-cord antennae.

With red yarn, CO 6 st on No. 4 dpn. Divide stitches evenly between 3 needles.
Being careful not to twist stitches, join in the round and knit one round.
Round 2: *k1, m1, k1; rep from * 2x (9 st)
Round 3: Knit around
Round 4: *k1, m1, k1, m1, k1; rep from * 2x (15 st)
Round 5: Knit around
Round 6: *k2tog, k1, k2tog; rep from *2x (9 st)
Round 7: Knit around
Round 8: *k2tog, k1; rep from * 2x (6 st)
Round 9: Knit around. Break yarn. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the remaining 6 stitches. Before pulling to close the hole, insert the end of the antennae that you just made into the red ball. Use the tail to sew the ball onto the antennae.

Clank’s Eyes
CO 6 st on Size 8 dpn.
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2 and all even rows: Purl across
Row 3: k1, m1, k4, m1, k1 (8 st)
Row 5: k1, m1, k6, m1, k1 (10 st)
Row 7: Knit across
Row 9: Knit across
Row 11: ssk, k6, k2tog (8 st)
Row 13: ssk, k4, k2tog (6 st)
Row 15: Bind off.

Make 2.

Clank’s Mouthpiece and Hinges
With darker gray yarn, CO 32 st
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Sl1, then changing colors to lighter gray yarn p30, leave last stitch on left needle. Leave the darker gray yarn hanging. You will pick it up again in Row 18.
Row 3: You have 1 st from the previous row on the right needle. Sl1, k28, leave 2 sts on left needle.
Row 4: Now, you have 2 sts from the previous row on the right needle. S1, p26, leave 3 sts on left needle.
Row 5: You have 3 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k24, leave 4 sts on left needle.
Row 6: You have 4 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p22, leave 5 sts on left needle.
Row 7: You have 5 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k20, leave 6 sts on left needle.
Row 8: You have 6 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p18, leave 7 sts on left needle.
Row 9: You have 7 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k16, leave 8 sts on left needle.
Row 10: You have 8 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p14, leave 9 sts on left needle.
Row 11: You have 9 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k12, leave 10 sts on left needle.
Row 12: You have 10 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p10, leave 11 sts on left needle.
Row 13: You have 11 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k8, leave 12 sts on left needle.
Row 14: You have 12 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p6, leave 13 sts on left needle.
Row 15: You have 13 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k4, leave 14 sts on left needle.
Row 16: You have 14 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p2, leave 15 sts on left needle.
Row 17: You have 15 sts on the right needle. Sl17. Cut lighter gray yarn and leave end hanging to weave in once you’re finished with the mouthpiece.
Row 18: Picking up the darker gray, knit across.
Row 19. Bind off.

For the hinges, CO 6 st on No. 8 dpn.
Knit 6 rows of an i-cord.
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave yarn through the live stitches. Pull tightly to close the gap.

Sew all the pieces onto Clank’s hat.

And you’re done!

Cute Giraffe Hat

A PDF file can be downloaded for FREE!
Cute Giraffe Hat (just click the link!)
If you post about this pattern on your website or blog, please provide a link to the pattern on my blog: www.jkwdesigns.com/2011/11/08/cute-giraffe-hat
If you sell items made using this pattern or any pattern published/written by jkwdesigns, please add a link to this site (www.jkwdesigns.com) on your listing! 

Enjoy!

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn in appropriate colors
(golden yellow, tan, brown)
Size 8, 16″ circular needles
Size 8 double pointed needles
Tapestry needle
1 stitch marker
5 mm crochet hook (optional)
Makes sizes: 6-9 mo (1-2 y, 2-3 y)
Gauge: 17 st x 24 rows = 4 in. in stockinette stitch
Hat:
CO 56 (64, 72)
Place stitch marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch until work measures 3.25 (4, 4.5 in).
Begin decreases:
Round 1: *K5 (6, 7), k2tog. Repeat from * around. [48 (56, 64) sts]
Round 2: knit
Round 3: *K4 (5, 6), k2tog. Repeat from * around. [40 (48, 56) sts]
Round 4: knit
Round 5: *K3 (4, 5), k2tog. Repeat from * around. [32 (40, 48) sts]
Round 6: knit
Round 7: *K2 (3, 4), k2tog. Repeat from * around. [24 (32, 40) sts]
Round 8: knit
Round 9: *K1 (2, 3), k2tog. Repeat from * around. [16 (24, 32) sts]
Round 10: knit
For 6-9 mo size, k2tog around (8 sts). For 1-2 y and 2-3 y sizes: continue with decreasing pattern until 8 sts remain.
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, thread tail through remaining 8 sts. Pull tight.
Ears (make 2):
CO 6 stitches
Row 1: knit
Row 2 and all even rows: purl
Row 3: k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1 (8 st)
Row 5: k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1 (10 st)
Row 7: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1 (12 st)
Row 9: knit
Row 11: k4, ssk, k2tog, k4 (10 st)
Row 13: k3, ssk, k2tog, k3 (8 st)
Row 15: k2, ssk, k2tog, k2 (6 st)
Row 17: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1 (4 st)
Row 19: ssk, k2tog (2 st)
Break yarn and using a tapestry needle, thread the tail through the remaining 2 stitches.
Antennae (make 2):
CO 5 on dpn
With 5 stitches, make i-cord until length is approximately 1.5 inches.
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, thread the tail through the 5 stitches. Pull tight.
Assembling the hat:
Sew ears and antennae onto the hat.
Using the appropriate color, create giraffe spots on the hat using duplicate stitch. I prefer the duplicate stitch in this instance because the spots are relatively small and intarsia in the round is rather annoying. Plus, I think it’s nice to see the main color peak through.Optional:
Pick up stitches along the brim with a 5.0mm crochet hook and single crochet around.
Weave in ends.

“God of War” Inspired Omega Symbol PSP Cozy

The God of War game series is probably one of my husband’s favorites. Even I have to admit that the graphics on the God of War games are absolutely stunning… Other than that, I don’t have too much interest in video games, but my husband enjoys them, and I don’t mind sitting on the couch and knitting while he plays. 😉

The pattern is complete and ready to share with you. Hope you enjoy! Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or find errors with the pattern.

***NOTE: This is a free pattern. Please use it and share it! However, please provide proper credit and a link to this pattern if you refer to it on your own website/blog. Many thanks!***

God of War Omega Symbol PSP Cozy

 

Materials

DK weight yarn in two colors (you will only need a small amount of the contrast color)

Size 3 double pointed needles

Yarn bobbins (optional)

Gauge on Size 3 needles

15 st = 2 in

18 rows = 2 in

Using the figure 8 cast on method, cast on 28 stitches. For a video tutorial of the figure 8 cast on, click here.

Round 1 – knit all stitches, evenly dividing stitches onto 4 dpn as you go.

Round 2 – k1, m1, k12, m1, u2, m1, k12, m1, k1 (32 st)

Round 3 – knit around

Round 4 – k1, m1, k14, m1, u2, m1, k14, m1, k1 (36 st)

Round 5 – knit around

Round 6 – k1, m1, k16, m1, u2, m1, k16, m1, k1 (40 st)

Round 7 – knit around

Round 8 – k1, m1, k20, m1, u2, m1, k20, m1, k1 (44 st)

Round 9 – knit around

Round 10 – k1, m1, k22, m1, u2, m1, k22, m1, k1 (48 st)

Continue knitting in the round until your work measures 2 inches.

Begin omega pattern according to chart. The pattern refers to the first 24 stitches of the round. Note: when working the pattern, it may be easier for you to transfer the 24 pattern stitches to one needle so that you’re working the entire pattern on one needle and the back of the cozy on two additional needles. Two circular needles would also work well with all of the front stitches on one needle, and all the back stitches on another.

If this is the first time that you’re knitting intarsia in the round, click here for a very simple how-to!

Continue knitting in the round until your work measures 7 inches.

Making Closure Flap

Knit first 24 stitches. Bind off next 24 stitches.

Row 1 – knit all across

Row 2 – purl across

Row 3 – k2tog, knit to last 2 st, ssk (22 st)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 14 stitches remain (4 more times)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice

Row 16 – make buttonhole using one row buttonhole method (depending on the size of the button used, the buttonhole will need to span one to two fewer stitches than the diameter of the button)

Row 17 – purl across

Row 18 – k2tog, knit to last 2 st, ssk (12 st)

Row 19 – purl across

Row 20 – k2tog, knit to last 2 st, ssk (10 st)

Row 21 – purl across

Row 22 – bind off

Weave in ends and block lightly. Add a button, and you’re all done!

I used the contrast yarn to single crochet an edging around the opening of the cozy to prevent curling. I’m also thinking of adding a pouch to the back for DH to carry an extra UMD, but for now, this is it!

Amigurumi Top Hat Pattern


The Corpse Groom is shaped the same way as the Corpse Bride. Click here for instructions on how to construct the head and the body of our ghoulish bride and groom!

The only difference is that the Corpse Groom is wearing a top hat, and it’s really easy to make. The top hat can, of course, be used for many other cute amigurumi creations.

Please feel free to use and share the link to this pattern.
However, please do not re-post the pattern on your own blog or website.

Top Hat – Crochet

I used worsted weight yarn and 4.00mm to create the top hat, but depending on what you’re making, you’ll want to match the yarn and gauge accordingly (for example, use the same yarn and needle size that you use for the body of the Corpse Groom).

*Each piece is worked in the round without joining rows. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row in order to keep track of your rows.*

In order to create a starting circle without a hole in the center, I use the double ring method. Detailed instructions for the double ring method can be found here.

TOP HAT:

Row 1: 6 sc in double ring. Pull ring closed tightly.

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.

Row 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 18 sc.

Row 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 24 sc.

Row 5: *Sc2tog in back loops only. Sc in back loop only of next 6 sc.* Repeat twice – 21 sc.

Row 6-11: Sc around.

Row 12: *2 sc in front loop only of next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 32 sc. (You will end with a 2 sc in a sc.)

Row 13: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 43 sc. (You will end with the first of the 2 sc.) Bind off. You’re done!

Amigurumi Corpse Bride Pattern

Please feel free to use and share the link to this pattern.
However, please do not re-post the pattern on your own blog or website.

The Corpse Bride (Crochet)

I used worsted weight yarn and 4.00mm to create the corpse bride. In addition to the yarn, you will need a sheer white fabric, needle and thread, and a small piece (approx. 1.5in.) of white pipe cleaner to attach the veil. For the eyes, you may use doll eyes found at craft stores, small black beads or felt. I used doll eyes that I colored in with black permanent marker in order to get rid of the whites of the eyes.

*Each piece is worked in the round without joining rows. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row in order to keep track of your rows.*

The head is worked from the top down and the body is worked from the bottom up. The two pieces end in the same number of stitches and are joined to create a seamless doll.

In order to create a starting circle without a hole in the center, I use the double ring method. Detailed instructions for the double ring method can be found here.

HEAD:

Row 1: 6 sc in double ring. Pull ring closed tightly.

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.

Row 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 18 sc.

Row 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 24 sc.

Row 5-8: Sc around.

Row 9: *Sc2tog in next sc. 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 18 sc.

Row 10: *Sc2tog in next sc. 1 sc in next sc* – 12 sc. (At this point, it may be easier to stuff the head because once you reduce the opening to 6 sc in the next row, the opening becomes very small. However, depending on the type of eyes you choose, you may need to attach the eyes before stuffing the head.)

Row 11: Sc2tog around – 6 sc. Bind off.

BODY:

Row 1: 6 sc in double ring. Pull ring closed tightly.

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.

Row 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 18 sc.

Row 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 24 sc.

Row 5: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 30 sc.

Row 6: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc* – 36 sc.

Row 7: Sc around in back loop only.

Row 8: Sc around.

Row 9: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc* – 30 sc.

Row 10: Sc around.

Row 11: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 24 sc.

Row 12: Sc around.

Row 13: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 18 sc.

Row 14: Sc around.

Row 15: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 12 sc.

Row 16: Sc around. (The same applies here. You may want to stuff the body before moving on to the next row.)

Row 17: Sc2tog around – 6 sc. Bind off.

HAIR:

I’m currently experimenting with hairstyles. I’m not too happy with the Corpse Bride’s current hair. I think it needs to be much more unruly. I will add photos and instructions for the various hairstyles as I work on them.

VEIL:

I’m not very handy with needle and thread, but the veil was quite easy to construct. I used a small piece of sheer, white fabric (approx. 4 inches x 20 inches) and simply bunched it together at the top. After sewing the fabric, I attached it to a small piece of pipe cleaner so I could mold it around the curve of the head. Also, the pipe cleaner gave me something to attach to the head.

FINISHING:

Construct the doll by lining the stitches at the bottom of the head with the stitches at the top of the body and sewing them together. The doll should be seamless, and you can hide the ends of the yarn in the body.

Finally, along the bottom edge of the doll, I added a decorative edging to the “dress.” I simply chained 4 and joined with a slip stitch every other stitch.

I think there are a lot of other great things that can be done/added to the corpse bride to make her look more “deadly.” For example, adding “dead” flowers to the top of her veil. You could also add arms to have her holding a bouquet.

I realize that these directions aren’t too precise, but if you can get the head and the body together, that’s really all there is too it. Everything else is embellishment, so it’s really up to you to personalize your corpse bride!

Happy crocheting!

 
Craftsy

Little Gamers Ninja Pattern

Please feel free to use and share the link to this pattern.
However, please do not re-post the pattern on your own blog.

 

The Cute Ninja from Little Gamers (Crochet)

I used a worsted-weight yarn (I think it was Red Heart Super Saver, but I can’t be sure. It was just some black scrap yarn that was floating around the house) and a 4.0mm crochet hook. My little guy is about 6 inches tall.

Each piece is worked in the round without joining rows. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row in order to keep track of your rows.

HEAD:
Starting chain: Ch 2.
Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.
Row 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 18 sc.
Row 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 24 sc.
Row 5: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 30 sc.
Row 6-11: Sc around.
Row 12: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 24 sc.
Row 13: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 18 sc.
Row 14: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 12 sc. Bind off. There will be a small opening to allow stuffing.

FACE:
Using white or flesh colored yarn, ch 5.
Row 1: 2 sc in back loop of 2nd ch from hook. Sc in back look of next 2 sc. 2 sc in back loop of next sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. Sc in front loop of next 2 sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. 12 sc.
Row 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. 16 sc. Bind off.
*With black yarn, sew eyes onto the ninja mask. You can make the eyes normal circles. I made mine in a “fighting stance” mode, but he looks more constipated than anything else! See samples.

BODY:
Starting chain: Ch 18 and join last ch to first chain with sl st, being careful not to twist.
Row 1: Sc around.
Row 2: *2sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 8 sc* – 20 sc.
Row 3: Sc around.
Row 4: *2sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 9 sc* – 22 sc.
Row 5-10: Sc around. Bind off.

ARMS (Make 2):
Starting chain: Ch 2.
Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.
Row 3: Sc around.
Row 4: Sc2tog around – 6 sc.
Row 5-6: Sc around.
Row 7: Sc in next 3 sc.
Row 8-10: TURN. Sc in each sc – 3 sc.
Row 11: TURN. Sc in each sc. Bind off.

FEET (Make 2):
Starting chain: Ch 5.
Row 1: 2 sc in back loop of 2nd ch from hook. Sc in back look of next 2 sc. 2 sc in back loop of next sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. Sc in front loop of next 2 sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. 12 sc.
Row 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. 16 sc.
Row 3: Sc around in back loop only.
Row 4: Sc2tog. Sc in next 4 sc. Sc2tog twice. Sc in next 6 sc. 13 sc.
Row 5: Sc2tog. Sc in next 3 sc. Sc2tog twice. Sc in next 4 sc. 10 sc.
Row 6-7: Sc around. Bind off, leaving a long tail to sew foot to body.

FINISHING:
Sew pieces together. You may want to sew the mask portion onto the head before stuffing the head. You may leave the arms unstuffed or stuff them for more definition. When you sew the feet on, sew the bottom row of the body onto the second or third row of the feet, shoving the feet into the body cavity a bit to create a bit of distinction between the body and the feet. In order to hide the last bit of stuffing that will peek through between the legs, sew the front of that area to the back.

Finally, for the little “notch” on the top of the ninja’s head, ch 2 and 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook. Bind off and tie the little notch to the top of the ninja. This also helps to conceal the little hole you may have at the top.