Eight months ago, my darling husband ordered 2 sets of Darn Pretty Interchangeable Knitting Needles for my knitting pleasure. They have finally arrived, and I am pretty much giddy with excitement. 🙂 I’ve got a new project lined up to work on. I’ll share my thoughts on these gorgeous, handcrafted needles once I get started!
This past week, I’ve been super busy with a few projects: knitting mittens for a wonderful charity project called The Kissing Hand Mittens Project to benefit the families of Newtown, CT, improving the Little Bunny Penny hat, and preparing for Miss Penelope’s first birthday party (I’ll talk about my crafty projects for her party in another post).
The Kissing Hand Mittens Project caught my attention last month, and I’ve been wanting to make something to send for a while. Moving into a new house and taking care of three little ones hasn’t exactly been conducive to knitting for charity. However, I took a couple of days and dedicated all my free time to churning out a couple pairs of mittens to send.
I love the way they turned out, and I’m excited to send them off to warm the little hands and hearts of a couple of children whose endured heartache that no child should ever have to go through. There’s still time to knit/crochet/donate to the project, so please take some time to read about it and consider contributing.
In my previous post, I shared a photo of Miss P in a bunny hat. Not long after I took the photo, the ears flopped down and no matter what I tried, I couldn’t get them to stick out again, so I took on the task of Version 2.0. This time, it work out much better. It also fits her so much better, and I’m overall much happier with the outcome. I’m excited to write the pattern–you know, when I have time… :-p Frustratingly, I don’t have a photo of her in the hat and the little peanut is sleeping now…so photos to come soon.
Now, it’s time for me to call it a night…
In the past few days, I’ve managed to dig myself out from beneath the mass of boxes, packing paper, damaged furniture, sweat and tears that a move the the other side of the world with three children under the age of 4 inevitably brings with it. Our house still needs a lot of work, but it’s now our home, which after two months of travel and living out of hotels–I couldn’t be happier.
Yesterday, I sat down and made a list. I’d been marveling at the number of friends I have expecting babies… And I needed to get it all down on paper or their due dates would come and go and there wouldn’t be any gifts to show for it! So, I have 12 friends expecting babies between now and the end of the year. Two of them are expecting twins. That’s 14 babies! I have a lot of knitting to do…
July’s babies’ knitting is complete. And two of the four August babies’ knitting is now done… I’m just going to be making hats for most of the babies. I’m thinking of blankets for two babies, but other than that, everything else should be one-two evening projects.
Not me! A friend of mine is having her SECOND set of twins. Naturally. Her first set are identical boys who are about 3.5 years old now, and the new set of twins are fraternal BOYS. If they’re half as cute as her first 2 boys, these new babies are going to be absolutely adorable. So I had to make them some equally adorable hats.
I made them in 6-12 month size, which should work out well since they’re due to arrive in early July.
So many of my friends are pregnant right now… I have lots of knitting to do! However, my baby knitting had to be sidelined in order to make a crochet/amigurumi Zoboomafoo for my boys–at their request!
One Zoboo down, one more to go!
I actually completed my first knitting project since Baby Penelope was born! A couple of weeks ago, Baby Penelope, at 10 weeks old, began sleeping through the night, and when I say sleeping through the night, I don’t mean a 5 hour stretch, which I guess is what’s considered sleeping through the night by numerous parenting sources. I mean, this little munchkin started going to sleep between 8 and 8:30 and would sleep until 7 or 8 in the morning. Sometimes, she’d sleep as late as 9:30! So, with a beautifully sleeping baby, I was actually able to pick up the knitting needles and get to work on an important project.
A woman in my March 2012 babies group (although Penelope was born in February…) was diagnosed with cancer the same day her little one turned one month old. As a group, we’ve been trying to help her out in various ways, sending her shipments of breastmilk, ordering meals for her and her family, putting together a comfort afghan. I didn’t think I would be able to contribute to the comfort afghan, but apparently, Penny thought it would be good for her mama to share the love. After all, another group of beautiful women from Ravelry sent us a lovely comfort afghan last year following my miscarriage in May.
So here’s what I made:
For the first time in YEARS, we decided not to travel or have guests for Thanksgiving, so my DH and my two precious boys got to spend the entire day together, stuffing ourselves silly. And because I didn’t have to worry about entertaining or even setting the table, the men in my life and I even got to run around outside in the beautiful autumn sunlight. And this is what we did:
As a celebratory gift, I have finally completed the pattern for the Ratchet and Clank Hats, and I offer it to you here for FREE! The hat is designed to fit kids between the ages of 2-4. My boys are a few months shy of 3, and I’m fairly certain that they’ll be able to wear the hats next winter as well. They’re a little big, but absolutely wearable.
Ratchet and Clank Hats
© Julia Kim Werts 2011
These patterns are for non-commercial, personal use only. Ratchet and Clank are copyrighted characters. This pattern should NOT be used to create hats for sale. The pattern is available for FREE, and hats made from this pattern should not be sold for profit.
A PDF file can be downloaded here for free!
Ratchet and Clank Hat Pattern
Size: Ages 2-4 (Updated to add: My sons are now 5 years old. The Ratchet hat still fits (yay!), but the Clank hat is too short and doesn’t cover his ears. I would recommend making the Clank hat longer–5.5 inches–before beginning the decreases) if you would like the hat to be worn longer!
These hats were made for my soon-to-be three year old twin boys at their Daddy’s request. They are definitely fun hats for little ones to wear, although I’m pretty sure that they’re more fun for my husband, who absolutely loves to take the boys out wearing them.
Worsted weight yarn in various colors
For Ratchet: brown, yellow, and tan
For Clank: light gray, dark gray, emerald green, red
No. 8, 16” circular needle
No. 8 dpn
No. 4 dpn
Poly-fil for Rachet’s ears
Ratchet’s Aviator Hat
With brown yarn, CO 97 st on No. 8 circular needle.
Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Round 1-5: Garter stitch around
All even rounds (WS): Knit around
Round 7-15 (odd rows only/RS): k1, m1, k14, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k14, m1, k1, m1, k14, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k14, m1, k1, m1, k14, slip1, k2togtbl, psso, k14, m1, k1
Round 17-until 16 st remain (odd rows only/RS): continue with pattern established above, but without the increases. So for Round 17: k15, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k29, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k29, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k15 [6 st decreased]; Round 19: k14, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k27, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k27, slip 1, k2togtbl, psso, k14 [6 st decreased], etc.
When 16 stitches remain, k2tog around [8 st]. Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull tightly to close hole at top of hat.
With yellow yarn, CO 36 st on No. 8 dpn. Divide stitches evenly on 4 needles, and being careful not to twist stitches, join in the round.
Round 1-3: Knit around.
Round 4: k2tog, k32, ssk (34 st)
Round 5-7: Knit around.
Round 8: k2tog, k30, ssk (32 st)
Round 9-11: Knit around.
Round 12: k2tog, k28, ssk (30 st)
Round 13-15: Knit around.
Round 16: k2tog, k26, ssk (28 st)
Round 17 and 18: Knit around.
Round 19: k2tog, k24, ssk (26 st)
Round 20 and 21: Knit around.
Round 22: k2tog, k22, ssk (24 st)
Round 23 and 24: Knit around
Round 25: k2tog, k20, ssk (22 st)
Round 26 and 27: Knit around.
Round 28: k2tog, k18, ssk (20 st)
Round 29: Knit around.
Round 30: k2tog, k16, ssk (18 st)
Round 31: Knit around.
Round 32: k2tog, k14, ssk (16 st)
Round 33: Knit around.
Round 34: k2tog, k12, ssk (14 st)
Round 35: Knit around.
Round 36: k2tog, k10, ssk (12 st)
Round 37: k2tog, k8, ssk (10 st)
Round 38: k2tog, k6, ssk (8 st)
Round 39: k2tog, k4, ssk (6 st)
Round 40: k2tog, k2, ssk (4 st)
Round 41: k2tog, ssk (2 st)
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, thread yarn through the remaining 2 stitches. Pull tightly and weave in ends.
The chart on the right shows one half of the Ratchet ears. The stripes on Rachet’s
ears can be added using duplicate stitch according to the pattern.
Put just enough poly-fil in Rachet’s ears to hold their shape. Sewing the ears onto the aviator hat is quite challenging. The easiest way to figure out where to place the ears is to find a well-behaved child to wear the hat while you carefully pin the ears onto the hat. And if finding a 2-4 year old child who will stand still for long enough to accomplish this is an impossibility, a mannequin head will work.
With lighter gray yarn, CO 72 st on No. 8 circular needle. Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Knit in 2×2 ribbing for about 1 inch
Continue in stockinette stitch until hat measures 4.5 inches
Begin decreases –
Round 1 – *k7, k2tog* around (64 st)
Round 2 – knit around
Round 3 – *k6, k2tog* around (56 st)
Round 4 – knit around
Round 5 – *k5, k2tog* around (48 st)
Round 6 – knit around
Round 7 – *k4, k2tog* around (40 st)
Round 8 – knit around
Round 9 – *k3, k2tog* around (32 st)
Round 10 – knit around
Round 11 – *k2, k2tog* around (24 st)
Round 12 – knit around
Round 13 – *k1, k2tog* around (16 st)
Round 14 – knit around
Round 15 – k2tog around (8 st)
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull tightly to close hole at top of hat.
Clank’s Top Piece and Antennae
With darker gray yarn, CO 4 st on No. 8 dpn.
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2 and all even rows: Purl across
Row 3: k1, m1, k2, m1, k1 (6 st)
Row 5: k1, m1, k4, m1, k1 (8 st)
Row 7: k1, m1, k6, m1, k1 (10 st)
Row 9: k1, m1, k8, m1, k1 (12 st)
Row 10: Purl across. Leave stitches on needle, but leaving a 6 inch break yarn.
Make 2 of these, but on the second one, do not break yarn.
(Note: You can actually bind off stitches to the 2 top pieces if you would prefer, then sew the two pieces together and pick up 4 stitches in the center for the antennae.)
Holding the two pieces together, use the tail you left on the first piece you made to bind off 4 stitches (Figure 1, 2, and 3).
Turn the piece so that the bound off stitches are now on the left side (Figure 4).
Doing the same thing you did on the other side, bind off 4 stitches from each needle. You will now have 8 stitches remaining, 4 on each needle (Figure 5).
|Figure 1: Hold two pieces together with the WS/purl sides against each other on the inside.|
Again, holding the two needles together, knit the stitches together (do NOT bind off). You will have 4 stitches on your needle (Figure 6).
With the 4 stitches remaining, knit as if you’re making an i-cord until the piece is approximately 1.5 inches. Cut yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave tail through the 4 stitches. Pull tightly, then thread the yarn down the center of the i-cord and use the yarn to close any gaps that you may have along the base of the i-cord antennae.
With red yarn, CO 6 st on No. 4 dpn. Divide stitches evenly between 3 needles.
Being careful not to twist stitches, join in the round and knit one round.
Round 2: *k1, m1, k1; rep from * 2x (9 st)
Round 3: Knit around
Round 4: *k1, m1, k1, m1, k1; rep from * 2x (15 st)
Round 5: Knit around
Round 6: *k2tog, k1, k2tog; rep from *2x (9 st)
Round 7: Knit around
Round 8: *k2tog, k1; rep from * 2x (6 st)
Round 9: Knit around. Break yarn. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the remaining 6 stitches. Before pulling to close the hole, insert the end of the antennae that you just made into the red ball. Use the tail to sew the ball onto the antennae.
CO 6 st on Size 8 dpn.
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2 and all even rows: Purl across
Row 3: k1, m1, k4, m1, k1 (8 st)
Row 5: k1, m1, k6, m1, k1 (10 st)
Row 7: Knit across
Row 9: Knit across
Row 11: ssk, k6, k2tog (8 st)
Row 13: ssk, k4, k2tog (6 st)
Row 15: Bind off.
Clank’s Mouthpiece and Hinges
With darker gray yarn, CO 32 st
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Sl1, then changing colors to lighter gray yarn p30, leave last stitch on left needle. Leave the darker gray yarn hanging. You will pick it up again in Row 18.
Row 3: You have 1 st from the previous row on the right needle. Sl1, k28, leave 2 sts on left needle.
Row 4: Now, you have 2 sts from the previous row on the right needle. S1, p26, leave 3 sts on left needle.
Row 5: You have 3 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k24, leave 4 sts on left needle.
Row 6: You have 4 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p22, leave 5 sts on left needle.
Row 7: You have 5 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k20, leave 6 sts on left needle.
Row 8: You have 6 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p18, leave 7 sts on left needle.
Row 9: You have 7 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k16, leave 8 sts on left needle.
Row 10: You have 8 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p14, leave 9 sts on left needle.
Row 11: You have 9 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k12, leave 10 sts on left needle.
Row 12: You have 10 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p10, leave 11 sts on left needle.
Row 13: You have 11 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k8, leave 12 sts on left needle.
Row 14: You have 12 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p6, leave 13 sts on left needle.
Row 15: You have 13 sts on the right needle. Sl1, k4, leave 14 sts on left needle.
Row 16: You have 14 sts on the right needle. Sl1, p2, leave 15 sts on left needle.
Row 17: You have 15 sts on the right needle. Sl17. Cut lighter gray yarn and leave end hanging to weave in once you’re finished with the mouthpiece.
Row 18: Picking up the darker gray, knit across.
Row 19. Bind off.
For the hinges, CO 6 st on No. 8 dpn.
Knit 6 rows of an i-cord.
Break yarn, and using a tapestry needle, weave yarn through the live stitches. Pull tightly to close the gap.
Sew all the pieces onto Clank’s hat.
And you’re done!
The God of War game series is probably one of my husband’s favorites. Even I have to admit that the graphics on the God of War games are absolutely stunning… Other than that, I don’t have too much interest in video games, but my husband enjoys them, and I don’t mind sitting on the couch and knitting while he plays. 😉
The pattern is complete and ready to share with you. Hope you enjoy! Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or find errors with the pattern.
***NOTE: This is a free pattern. Please use it and share it! However, please provide proper credit and a link to this pattern if you refer to it on your own website/blog. Many thanks!***
God of War Omega Symbol PSP Cozy
DK weight yarn in two colors (you will only need a small amount of the contrast color)
Size 3 double pointed needles
Yarn bobbins (optional)
Gauge on Size 3 needles
15 st = 2 in
18 rows = 2 in
Using the figure 8 cast on method, cast on 28 stitches. For a video tutorial of the figure 8 cast on, click here.
Round 1 – knit all stitches, evenly dividing stitches onto 4 dpn as you go.
Round 2 – k1, m1, k12, m1, u2, m1, k12, m1, k1 (32 st)
Round 3 – knit around
Round 4 – k1, m1, k14, m1, u2, m1, k14, m1, k1 (36 st)
Round 5 – knit around
Round 6 – k1, m1, k16, m1, u2, m1, k16, m1, k1 (40 st)
Round 7 – knit around
Round 8 – k1, m1, k20, m1, u2, m1, k20, m1, k1 (44 st)
Round 9 – knit around
Round 10 – k1, m1, k22, m1, u2, m1, k22, m1, k1 (48 st)
Continue knitting in the round until your work measures 2 inches.
Begin omega pattern according to chart. The pattern refers to the first 24 stitches of the round. Note: when working the pattern, it may be easier for you to transfer the 24 pattern stitches to one needle so that you’re working the entire pattern on one needle and the back of the cozy on two additional needles. Two circular needles would also work well with all of the front stitches on one needle, and all the back stitches on another.
If this is the first time that you’re knitting intarsia in the round, click here for a very simple how-to!
Continue knitting in the round until your work measures 7 inches.
Making Closure Flap
Knit first 24 stitches. Bind off next 24 stitches.
Row 1 – knit all across
Row 2 – purl across
Row 3 – k2tog, knit to last 2 st, ssk (22 st)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 14 stitches remain (4 more times)
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice
Row 16 – make buttonhole using one row buttonhole method (depending on the size of the button used, the buttonhole will need to span one to two fewer stitches than the diameter of the button)
Row 17 – purl across
Row 18 – k2tog, knit to last 2 st, ssk (12 st)
Row 19 – purl across
Row 20 – k2tog, knit to last 2 st, ssk (10 st)
Row 21 – purl across
Row 22 – bind off
Weave in ends and block lightly. Add a button, and you’re all done!
I used the contrast yarn to single crochet an edging around the opening of the cozy to prevent curling. I’m also thinking of adding a pouch to the back for DH to carry an extra UMD, but for now, this is it!