The Corpse Bride, Version 2.0

She’s finished, and I’m definitely happy about the way her hair turned out though I think it would look great if she had some gray and blue streaks in her hair. I tried out black beads for her eyes, and I’m not overly thrilled, but they’re okay. I can’t tell which eyes I like better… Thoughts, anyone?

I’m still waiting to be inspired by the Corpse Groom. Hopefully, I’ll make him soon. I did make a top hat the other day, but it was too small for the head. If at first you don’t succeed, right? 🙂

Amigurumi Corpse Bride Pattern

Please feel free to use and share the link to this pattern.
However, please do not re-post the pattern on your own blog or website.

The Corpse Bride (Crochet)

I used worsted weight yarn and 4.00mm to create the corpse bride. In addition to the yarn, you will need a sheer white fabric, needle and thread, and a small piece (approx. 1.5in.) of white pipe cleaner to attach the veil. For the eyes, you may use doll eyes found at craft stores, small black beads or felt. I used doll eyes that I colored in with black permanent marker in order to get rid of the whites of the eyes.

*Each piece is worked in the round without joining rows. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row in order to keep track of your rows.*

The head is worked from the top down and the body is worked from the bottom up. The two pieces end in the same number of stitches and are joined to create a seamless doll.

In order to create a starting circle without a hole in the center, I use the double ring method. Detailed instructions for the double ring method can be found here.

HEAD:

Row 1: 6 sc in double ring. Pull ring closed tightly.

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.

Row 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 18 sc.

Row 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 24 sc.

Row 5-8: Sc around.

Row 9: *Sc2tog in next sc. 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 18 sc.

Row 10: *Sc2tog in next sc. 1 sc in next sc* – 12 sc. (At this point, it may be easier to stuff the head because once you reduce the opening to 6 sc in the next row, the opening becomes very small. However, depending on the type of eyes you choose, you may need to attach the eyes before stuffing the head.)

Row 11: Sc2tog around – 6 sc. Bind off.

BODY:

Row 1: 6 sc in double ring. Pull ring closed tightly.

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.

Row 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 18 sc.

Row 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 24 sc.

Row 5: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 30 sc.

Row 6: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc* – 36 sc.

Row 7: Sc around in back loop only.

Row 8: Sc around.

Row 9: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc* – 30 sc.

Row 10: Sc around.

Row 11: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 24 sc.

Row 12: Sc around.

Row 13: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 18 sc.

Row 14: Sc around.

Row 15: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 12 sc.

Row 16: Sc around. (The same applies here. You may want to stuff the body before moving on to the next row.)

Row 17: Sc2tog around – 6 sc. Bind off.

HAIR:

I’m currently experimenting with hairstyles. I’m not too happy with the Corpse Bride’s current hair. I think it needs to be much more unruly. I will add photos and instructions for the various hairstyles as I work on them.

VEIL:

I’m not very handy with needle and thread, but the veil was quite easy to construct. I used a small piece of sheer, white fabric (approx. 4 inches x 20 inches) and simply bunched it together at the top. After sewing the fabric, I attached it to a small piece of pipe cleaner so I could mold it around the curve of the head. Also, the pipe cleaner gave me something to attach to the head.

FINISHING:

Construct the doll by lining the stitches at the bottom of the head with the stitches at the top of the body and sewing them together. The doll should be seamless, and you can hide the ends of the yarn in the body.

Finally, along the bottom edge of the doll, I added a decorative edging to the “dress.” I simply chained 4 and joined with a slip stitch every other stitch.

I think there are a lot of other great things that can be done/added to the corpse bride to make her look more “deadly.” For example, adding “dead” flowers to the top of her veil. You could also add arms to have her holding a bouquet.

I realize that these directions aren’t too precise, but if you can get the head and the body together, that’s really all there is too it. Everything else is embellishment, so it’s really up to you to personalize your corpse bride!

Happy crocheting!

 
Craftsy

Amigurumi Corpse Bride

I so wanted to blog about her earlier today, but I was focused on getting her finished up. I ran into a few snags though because I cannot locate me glue gun, or my entire box of crafting supplies for that matter… And the eyes I bought yesterday just didn’t look right on her. However, I improvised, and I am proud to say that she is done!


I wished she looked a little more “dead,” but I think the dead aspect of it will be more effective once she’s got a corpse groom standing next to her.

I didn’t give her arms, though that’s possible. And I’m really happy about her veil. I found some scrap fabric at Joann Fabric, and I’m so not good with sewing and needle and thread, but I think it turned out really well. I sewed the fabric onto a small piece of pipe cleaner so I could mold the piece around the curve of her head. Also, you can’t see it in these pictures, but she’s got long black hair down her back. I figured the corpse bride has long hair…

Anyway, I hope to get the pattern up later today.

Little Gamers Ninja Pattern

Please feel free to use and share the link to this pattern.
However, please do not re-post the pattern on your own blog.

 

The Cute Ninja from Little Gamers (Crochet)

I used a worsted-weight yarn (I think it was Red Heart Super Saver, but I can’t be sure. It was just some black scrap yarn that was floating around the house) and a 4.0mm crochet hook. My little guy is about 6 inches tall.

Each piece is worked in the round without joining rows. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row in order to keep track of your rows.

HEAD:
Starting chain: Ch 2.
Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.
Row 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 18 sc.
Row 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 24 sc.
Row 5: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 30 sc.
Row 6-11: Sc around.
Row 12: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* – 24 sc.
Row 13: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* – 18 sc.
Row 14: *Sc2tog in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* – 12 sc. Bind off. There will be a small opening to allow stuffing.

FACE:
Using white or flesh colored yarn, ch 5.
Row 1: 2 sc in back loop of 2nd ch from hook. Sc in back look of next 2 sc. 2 sc in back loop of next sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. Sc in front loop of next 2 sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. 12 sc.
Row 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. 16 sc. Bind off.
*With black yarn, sew eyes onto the ninja mask. You can make the eyes normal circles. I made mine in a “fighting stance” mode, but he looks more constipated than anything else! See samples.

BODY:
Starting chain: Ch 18 and join last ch to first chain with sl st, being careful not to twist.
Row 1: Sc around.
Row 2: *2sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 8 sc* – 20 sc.
Row 3: Sc around.
Row 4: *2sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 9 sc* – 22 sc.
Row 5-10: Sc around. Bind off.

ARMS (Make 2):
Starting chain: Ch 2.
Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc – 12 sc.
Row 3: Sc around.
Row 4: Sc2tog around – 6 sc.
Row 5-6: Sc around.
Row 7: Sc in next 3 sc.
Row 8-10: TURN. Sc in each sc – 3 sc.
Row 11: TURN. Sc in each sc. Bind off.

FEET (Make 2):
Starting chain: Ch 5.
Row 1: 2 sc in back loop of 2nd ch from hook. Sc in back look of next 2 sc. 2 sc in back loop of next sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. Sc in front loop of next 2 sc. 2 sc in front loop of next sc. 12 sc.
Row 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 2 sc in next 2 sc. 16 sc.
Row 3: Sc around in back loop only.
Row 4: Sc2tog. Sc in next 4 sc. Sc2tog twice. Sc in next 6 sc. 13 sc.
Row 5: Sc2tog. Sc in next 3 sc. Sc2tog twice. Sc in next 4 sc. 10 sc.
Row 6-7: Sc around. Bind off, leaving a long tail to sew foot to body.

FINISHING:
Sew pieces together. You may want to sew the mask portion onto the head before stuffing the head. You may leave the arms unstuffed or stuff them for more definition. When you sew the feet on, sew the bottom row of the body onto the second or third row of the feet, shoving the feet into the body cavity a bit to create a bit of distinction between the body and the feet. In order to hide the last bit of stuffing that will peek through between the legs, sew the front of that area to the back.

Finally, for the little “notch” on the top of the ninja’s head, ch 2 and 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook. Bind off and tie the little notch to the top of the ninja. This also helps to conceal the little hole you may have at the top.

The Cute Ninja

I spent two days on this little ninja, although it really only took about two hours to crochet all the pieces to put it together. There’s no pattern for this little guy (I ended up not using the amigurumi ninja pattern I found online), so I was just kind of winging it, using an image of the ninja from the online comic Little Gamers.

My brother is a big fan, and he’s coming back from the Congo in about 10 days, so I really wanted to make him something useful that he could take with him when he travels. If he goes back to Central Africa, he won’t really need anything that I could knit or crochet, but everyone needs a cute little doll to take around with them!

I’m hoping to put together the pattern and post it in the next few days. In the meantime, check out the Little Gamers and their adorable little ninjas!